Heritage Month highlights the country’s rich diversity — and the importance of skincare conversations that recognise the full spectrum of South African skin tones and experiences
As South Africa celebrates Heritage Month, the country’s diversity takes centre stage through its cultures, traditions and languages. But diversity is also reflected in something much more visible: the remarkable spectrum of skin tones found across the country.
For dermatologist and Dermopal® creator Dr Leslie Nteta, recognising this diversity is an important part of ensuring that people have access to skincare information that speaks to their individual needs.
“South Africans have an incredible range of skin tones, yet for a long time many people with skin of colour have had to navigate skincare advice that did not necessarily speak to their own concerns or experiences,” says Dr Nteta. “If we want people to make informed decisions about their skin, the information we give them needs to reflect that diversity.”
Melanin is central to understanding this spectrum, although it is often viewed simply as the pigment responsible for darker skin. In reality, melanin is present across human skin tones and has antioxidant and photoprotective properties. The amount and type of eumelanin in the epidermis also influence complexion and sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation.
The term “melanin-rich” can therefore be misleading if it is treated as a simple category. All skin tones contain melanin, expressed in different forms and quantities. Recognising this spectrum provides a more inclusive way of understanding and discussing skin.
Skin biology can also help explain some of the challenges experienced by people with darker skin tones. Melanocytes can be particularly reactive to inflammation or injury, meaning everyday skin concerns such as acne or dermatitis may be followed by excess melanin production.
As a result, while an initial breakout or irritation may disappear, the dark mark left behind can remain for much longer. Understanding this process can help consumers approach pigmentation concerns with greater awareness instead of simply turning to the latest trending skincare product.
Representation in skincare, therefore, extends beyond seeing different complexions in advertising. It also involves recognising that people’s skin concerns may differ and ensuring that relevant information and appropriate formulations are available to them.
This becomes increasingly important in an era where consumers are exposed to an overwhelming amount of skincare advice online. A routine that works well for one person may not necessarily address another individual’s concerns, while a viral ingredient cannot account for everyone’s skin history or response to inflammation.
Providing consumers with context about how and why their skin behaves in certain ways can help them navigate this information more effectively and make choices based on their individual needs.
South Africa’s diversity also creates an opportunity to broaden the language used when discussing skin. When particular complexions are treated as the standard, people who fall outside that narrow definition may struggle to understand where their own experiences fit into the conversation.
Dr Nteta says this principle has influenced his work, including the development of Dermopal®, a proudly South African skincare range created with skin of colour in mind. However, he stresses that the conversation should extend beyond any individual product or brand.
“When people understand their skin, they can make choices based on what it actually needs rather than what they have been told it should look like,” he says. “That is why education and representation in skincare need to go together.”
As Heritage Month celebrates the many identities, histories and traditions that make South Africa unique, it also offers an opportunity to recognise the country’s diverse spectrum of skin. Ensuring that skincare education and conversations reflect that diversity can help consumers better understand their skin and make more informed choices about how they care for it.